unguided tour

Monuments are sites of symbolic exchange.

Last week Granada’s monument to José Antonio Primo de Rivera, founder + leader of the anti-republican, fascist Falange party, was decorated with a laurel crown, the symbol of victory and invincibility. Thus decorated the monument speaks about the future (rather than the past or the present) for Primo de Rivera was neither victorious nor invincible — found guilty of anti-republican conspiracy and insurrection he was sentenced to death and executed on Nov. 20, 1936.

Today someone left a reply.

"Granada será la tumba del fascismo," (Granada will be the grave of fascism), monument to Josè Antonio Primo de Rivera, Nov. 26, 2009

Translation is like a sex change operation: to change the form in order to make shine the essence, the beauty, the truth of that which lies within. And yet no form or shape is ever adequate. (more…)

On the flight to Granada I made a vow: not to complain about the disappointments of Spain’s cuisine and its wine. (The notable exception is a Moscatel from Horacio Calvente:, subtly bitter-sweet, gently graced by the moon. A delight from Granada’s mountains.) (more…)

If you ever wish to escape the colonizing power of visual images (or need proof of its reality) — go to the Alhambra. I promise it will be a liberating experience,  a revelation of sorts — even among the scores of tourists.

The architecture is stunning. Marvelous. So beautiful it brings tears to my eyes. (more…)

La Plaza del Campillo is a busy square in the center of  Granada. Ice cream parlors, souvenir shops, restaurants. In the afternoons natives + tourists come here to relax on the benches by the fountain. Kids running around, dogs sleeping in the sun.

Mornings are different.  (more…)

It’s lunchtime and the city goes to sleep for four hours. I don’t normally eat lunch (I prefer dinner) nor do I take a nap during the day. With no one to talk to, I read.

In the inside there is sleeping, (more…)

In Spain October 12 is colonization day (el Dia de la Hispanidad). A day-long fiesta. Something to be proud of? I’m not Spanish.

Here’s the Granada rap: (more…)

Granada,  city of the sleepless.

When I fall asleep, you wake me up. (more…)

Granada is the capital of beauty.

The tourists who come to the city long to see with their own eyes the “green-purple moon appear in the bluish mist of the Sierra Nevada;” hear with their own ears Granada’s purest voice: “the sound of hidden water, like the pulsing of an ever-living mystery;” feel on their skin the “breeze that comes from the old hills of the Alhambra — from the bonfire of saffron, deep gray, and blotting paper pink of its walls,” “an air so beautiful it is almost thought.” (more…)

(more…)

Down the deserted street
goes a black horse
the wandering horse
of bad dreams.
(FG Lorca)

Perhaps the best way to get to know the ghosts of a city is by looking for an apartment. A sucker for historical settings I begin my search in the Albayzin, the city’s oldest quarter and for almost eight centuries the heart of muslim Granada. (more…)

For those in power the transition from one absolute ruler to another is a moment of great anxiety precisely because it reveals the gap between the dictators ordinary mortal body and his claim to extraordinary immortal power. Francoist Spain is no exception. (more…)

Steps behind me, coming closer. I turn around. There’s no-one there.
Voices beneath my balcony. I look down. No-one. (more…)

Granada’s homeless are young. Very young. Women and men in their early twenties. Some even younger. Getting by on alcohol, cigarettes, and drugs. Like everywhere in Europe many have dogs. A living being to comfort; the comfort of a home. (more…)

Miércoles. The day of Mercury, the messenger, the god of commerce, inventor of the lyre.

Wednesdays are in between days.

In between what? (more…)

Couples on vacation. A curious concept. During the most precious weeks of the year they commit to what they have learned to carefully avoid: To-gether-ness. Spending twenty-four hours a day in each other’s company.  Breakfast, lunch, dinner. The Alhambra, the palace of Charles V, la Catedral. (more…)

Granada is fit for dream and daydream, and it borders everywhere on the ineffable. … Her tender personality is hidden away inside her houses and her landscape. Her voice comes down from a little mirador, or rises from a dark window. … To hear that voice, one must enter the tiny chambers and corners of the city, live the city’s unpeopled interior and well girded solitude. And, what’s even more admirable, explore one’s own intimacy, one’s own secret, taking a definitely lyrical perspective on things. One must make oneself a little poorer, forget one’s name, renounce what people call ‘personality.’ (FG Lorca, Granada, Paradise Closed to Many) (more…)

Granada, Spain. A group of tourists trying to locate the remnants of a mosque. “It must be right here … somewhere… This looks exactly like on the photograph, doesn’t it? ” (more…)